28 October 2006 - The Daily Telegraph - Charles Starmer Smith

Next week the tropical islands off West Africa will be reachable by direct flights from London. Charles Starmer-Smith visits our next winter-sun hotspot.

Five of the best: Fogo, Sal, Santiago, Sao Vicente and Santo Antao

With the mercury rising to 36C on the blackened slopes of the volcano, it was a surprise to see one of the locals wearing denim jeans, two paisley shirts and a thick balaclava. Especially when that local was a donkey.

This retro mule offered a new meaning to the phrase making an ass of yourself. But according to its owner, the odd attire was the best prevention against the flies that pursued him from the shrubs sprouting from the century-old lava flow.

Welcome to Cape Verde, a handful of islands scattered like loose change off the west coast of Africa, where you soon learn to expect the unexpected.

Situated at the meeting points of the north-east and south-west trade winds, it has long been a stopping off point for seafarers, slave traders and merchants travelling between Europe, Africa and the Americas. Now it is being touted as the new winter-sun destination for British holidaymakers. Direct flights start next Thursday. But do not expect just the usual sun, sand, sea and soulless beach resorts. Yes, there are pristine white sands with barely a soul on them and waters of Maldivian colour and clarity, but if you stick to the British routine of beach, buffet, bar and bed, you will be missing the point.

These 10 islands and eight islets might not have the hotels, spas and world-class restaurants of winter-sun destinations such as Dubai, Australia, Thailand or the Caribbean. But that is half the attraction. For here, just five-and-a-half hours from London, you can find as much variety as you would on most continents.

The climate never falls below 25C and rarely rises above 35C. On many of the islands it barely rains, and if it does half the year's rainfall can fall in a single storm. Only the winds of February and March pose any problem. Furthermore, Cape Verde is just two hours behind Britain, so jet lag, the curse of many a long-haul break, is never an issue.

Of the 10 principal islands, I visited five: Fogo, Sal, Santiago, São Vicente and Santo Antão - the ones that, with Boa Vista, are most geared up for tourism.

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